Written by Jeff

PL8 A TUDES

We continue our series of personalized (vanity) license plates in Arizona. To maintain individual privacy, we try to show as little information about particular cars as possible as long as we can reveal the license plate.
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NOTE - License plate photos may have been archived for quite some time. The years indicated on the registration stickers DO NOT necessarily reflect the current status of any given plate!
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We hope you enjoy these PL8 A TUDES!

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To start the New Year, Let’s

SML4LF

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AND

BGR8FLL

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Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post

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Written by Jeff

Hydrating the new Rose

When a bare-root rose is brought home, mix a five gallon bucket (or larger if needed) of water with three drops of bleach added. The bleach will serve to kill any bacteria. Keep the roots submerged in the water between eight and twenty-four hours.

Red Rose at Mesa CC Rose Garden

Plant Site Preparation

It is important to prepare the new “home” for the chosen rose. I always find this easier to do ahead of time to avoid the “pressure” of having the plant waiting. The hole should be two feet deep and a minimum of two feet wide. One of the major problems with growing in the desert is that some of the soils don’t drain well and this can be very problematic for roses that need good drainage. Once the hole is dug, fill it with water and check it periodically. If the water drains out in 4-8 hours, then the location will be fine. If not, dig another hole somewhere else.

There are almost as many rose mixes as there are rose growers. As mentioned above, the key is to make sure that the planting medium drains well. Like most plants, roses do not like to have wet ‘feet’ for long periods of time. One recommended planting mix might contain:

  • 1/3 native soil
  • 1/3 forest mulch – (made from tree trimmings, branches – mostly browns with some greens)
  • 1/3 potting soil
  • Coarse sand or pumice to aid drainage

Mix the above ingredients together and form a rounded mound or hill in the center of the planting hole.

Planting the Rose

Remove the plant from the bucket of water and carefully spread the roots out over the mound so they are distributed as evenly as possible. Fill the hole to within one inch of the top making sure that the bud union, (the place where the root stock and hybrid stock are grafted), is between one and two inches above the final soil line. Press gently around the plant to firm the dirt, but not too hard. Add water and let the soil settle. Press the dirt lightly once again. This will remove all air pockets. Complete filling in the hole with planting mix, making certain to keep the bud union above the soil line and then add more water. Mulch the top of the soil with appropriate materials such as pine needles, bark, etc.

Once the rose is planted, trim the canes back to about ten inches. Make sure that when trimming the canes that they are trimmed to an outward facing bud eye. Bud eyes are the slightly swollen bumps found along the cane. If you are not familiar with this practice, you can find more detailed instructions and pictures at the Weekend Gardener:

http://www.weekendgardener.net/how-to/prune-roses.htm (see steps six and seven)

HINT - If you are planting a new plant (not a transplant with a soil ball), here is a recommended procedure to get the rose off to a good start. (The idea is to insulate and protect the above-ground canes with mulch that is kept lightly moist.) Take a brown grocery bag and cut off the bottom. Place the bag gently over the newly planted rose. Fill the bag with mulch which will help keep the plant warm and frost-free. Leave this in place for one month. Check to see if there are new leaves forming. If not, cover again for another two-three weeks and remove the mulch.

Container Roses can be planted between March and April. Try to plant them as early in March as possible to allow them to grow and gain strength prior to the real heat of summer. Treat these container grown roses as you would any other desert plant, i.e. prepare a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide using a soil mix suitable for roses (see previous section).

Fertilizing

Mary Lou Coffman recommends that the roses be watered the day before they are fertilized because watering a dry plant may cause burn. Begin fertilizing at the end of February. Use 1 cup of good quality, time-release rose food per standard size rose following the frequency recommended on the product container. Miniature roses should be given half this amount. Container roses also require less fertilizer dosage in more frequent applications than in-ground roses.

Serious rose gardeners also like to use a liquid fertilizer to provide even more nutrients to the plants. This may be done every two weeks or so. A number of the very serious rose growers also like to use alfalfa meal or pellets as a supplement to the all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer. Use alfalfa only on established plants. Check with your garden center and follow directions. The Mesa-East Valley Rose Society newsletter, Rose Lore, has articles with more specifics about fertilizing in the February, 2008 edition:

http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/Newsletters_Articles_files/February%202008.pdf

HINT - At the end of February, June and September (three times per year), one week after fertilizing and just after watering, add 1/3 cup Epsom salts around each rose bush at the drip line and water it in. This promotes the growth of new canes which mean more potential flowers.

Pink Rose at Portland OR Rose Garden

FOR CASUAL GROWERS - Ms. Coffman indicated that using one-cup of timed-release fertilizer per bush, every month to six weeks would be “good enough” for most casual rose growers. The other methods mentioned above can then be added as one becomes more comfortable with their horticultural practices.

IMPORTANT – DO NOT FERTILIZE from the end of November through the end of February this is the time of year that the roses do not grow and they rest. There is an art to growing the best roses; it is definitely not a science!

Article References:


Read A Rose Among the Thorns - Part I - http://www.gardeningonthemoon.com/2008/12/16/a-rose-among-the-thorns-part-i/

To view .pdf (portable document files) you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader which is free. Download it here: http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/

Mesa-East Valley Rose Society - http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/Home.html
Easy Rose Care Calendar for Arizona Gardeners - http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/Newsletters_Articles_files/Yearlong%20Arizona%20Easy%20Rose%20Care%20Calendar.pdf

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Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post
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Written by Jeff


PL8 A TUDES


We continue our series of personalized (vanity) license plates in Arizona. To maintain individual privacy, we try to show as little information about particular cars as possible as long as we can reveal the license plate.
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NOTE - License plate photos may have been archived for quite some time. The years indicated on the registration stickers DO NOT necessarily reflect the current status of any given plate!
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We hope you enjoy these PL8 A TUDES!

****************************************

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MRS. WOOF

Drives a


PDLTAXI

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Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post

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Written by Jeff

Who would guess that more than half the roses sold in the United States are grown in Arizona for shipping to various outlets including some of the major mail-order retailers? The truth is that roses do very well in the Sonoran desert as long as they are given proper care and the appropriate varieties are selected.

Mesa CC Rose Garden

When growing roses in the desert heat, they may become more spindly than normal and blooms may decrease during the hottest part of the summer. Shade from hot afternoon sun is recommended to avoid sunburn damage and provide relief. While these plants may struggle through the heat of the summer, they provide quite a show in the spring and again in the fall. Some varieties bloom well into November and beyond!

This series of articles is based on a lecture delivered by Marylou Coffman in Cave Creek, Arizona on December 13, 2008. Ms. Coffman is a consulting rosarian and expert rose grower who is eager to share her knowledge and encourage others. She has over 200 roses in her collection and helps to oversee the Mesa Community College Rose Garden with over 8,000 rose bushes on their way to 12,000. If you ever get a chance to visit the Mesa Community College Rose Garden during its peak, you will be treated to a spectacular site!

View pictures and learn more about the Rose Garden at Mesa Community College:
http://www.mc.maricopa.edu/community/rosegarden/

Rose Selections

It is always wise to pick roses that do well in a particular area. One way to find out which roses do well in a given region is to join the local rose society. That is not always possible so many groups such as the Mesa-East Valley Rose Society maintains a list of roses that are particularly suited for the Sonoran Desert (see the link at the end of the article). Another place to find potential varieties is at HelpMeFind [ http://www.helpmefind.com/plant/plants.php ] Make sure that “Roses” is selected in the drop-down menu under the Name Search tab.

Whichever rose is chosen, make sure it is a number one quality. One of the most important considerations is that the roots of the plant are vigorous which means avoiding most roses with roots packaged in bags. Purchasing bare root roses offers the opportunity to examine the roots. Most retailers will stand behind their nursery stock and either refund the money spent or offer a credit towards future purchases if you are not satisfied. Each rose purchased should have multiple, thick canes (branches) above the bud union. Four or more strong canes would be ideal.

NOTE: It is important NOT to purchase any roses for planting in the desert if they have wax on them. This is done to protect tender growth against the cold in some geographic areas, but will be a severe disadvantage to any rose headed for the hotter climates.

Location

Roses need at least six hours of sun to perform their best. In the desert, an eastern exposure with morning and early afternoon sun is ideal. If, however, you want to plant roses in a location where they will receive the heat of the strong afternoon summer sun, shade cloth, lathing or other measures can be used to mitigate the effects of the sun’s rays. There are a few varieties that will tolerate the heat of the full sun and spring back into full action once the cooler days of fall return, but to perform their best, most roses will need some protection from the hottest days of desert sun.
Yellow Rose Closeup

Roses do not like reflected heat. Avoid planting near walls and areas where heat would reflect back onto the bushes. Also give them plenty of room. Three to five feet of growing room should be left between large growing plants with less space for smaller plants such as miniatures or the more compact bush roses. Climbers may need ten or more feet depending on how vigorous they grow. Ask the retailer or research the needs for the particular plant online or with the local rose society.

Article References:

Read Part II of Roses Among the Thorns - http://www.gardeningonthemoon.com/2008/12/29/a-rose-among-the-thorns-part-ii/

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To view .pdf (portable document files) you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader which is free. Download it here: http://www.adobe.com/products/reader/

Mesa-East Valley Rose Society - http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/Home.html

Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post


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Written by Jeff


PL8 A TUDES


We continue our series of personalized (vanity) license plates in Arizona. To maintain individual privacy, we try to show as little information about particular cars as possible as long as we can reveal the license plate.
spacer
NOTE - License plate photos may have been archived for quite some time. The years indicated on the registration stickers DO NOT necessarily reflect the current status of any given plate!
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We hope you enjoy these PL8 A TUDES!

****************************************

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IWLKDOU?

?

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Yes and I also

LYK2HYK

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Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post

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Written by Jeff

Compostable Garbage

Air

All living organisms need air. The microorganisms in the compost pile need air to live and reproduce. Air is added to the compost pile by turning it frequently. To help provide air, compost containers should have air holes to allow for circulation. When I had my four-bin compost system in New Jersey, the sides of the compost bins, except for the front, were made of plastic-coated fencing wire which provided more than ample air to reach the compost when it was turned.

Water

A compost bin needs water, but shouldn’t be soggy. As Tyler Storey related during his presentation, it should be as wet as a wrung out sponge, but no wetter. In AZ that is a bit tricky, but attention must be paid for successful composting.

Building the compost pile

Make certain that the container is large enough to hold a significant volume of material. Mr. Storey suggested a 3′ x 3′ minimum. The bin should be in an area that enables access for turning, near to where materials will be unloaded and of course, near a water source.

Ingredients should be chopped into small pieces, but do not have to be too small (no whole celery stalks). The smaller the pieces, the better the mix and at least theoretically, the faster the material will decompose. Materials should be able to be turned with a spading fork.

Once the materials are assembled, pile the layers so that they alternate: Greens, Browns, Garden Soil (to introduce microorganisms to the mix) and Water. Mix this well.

Turn the pile on a regular basis. Tyler Storey turns his compost pile daily, but every few days should also work (remember the water on the days when the pile is not turned). Decomposition is aided by frequent turning; the more it is turned, the faster compost will be produced. Move the material from the outside of the pile to the inside and introduce enough water to keep the pile damp.

Worms in Compost

Composting generates heat and in some cases it can be quite a bit of heat. This is not bad, just a part of the process. There were numerous times in New Jersey that I could see steam rising from the pile. When the compost is cool, the ingredients are not recognizable*, it is dark brown and crumbly, it is ready for use. At this stage, it is often referred to as Brown Gold!

*NOTE – It is my experience that from time-to-time, something maybe introduced in the compost pile and because of circumstances, it does not decompose or doesn’t decompose as quickly as other items so it remains recognizable even though the compost is basically ready for use. When we say “not recognizable,” we refer to the general overall appearance of the ingredients.

During the presentation, Tyler showed the evolution of a compost pile from May 26 through October 2 which was a period of 129 days from start to finish. It should take about four months to generate finished compost. If you are using a one-container system, you will need to stop adding material for a while to allow proper decomposition of the entire pile.

Once the compost is done, it can be added to the garden at a ratio of one-third compost to two-thirds garden soil. For more information, visit Tyler Storey’s companion website:

http://thedesertgarden.com/

Happy Composting!

PS – It seems that many people are getting into composting!

Shoplifters will be Composted
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Read the first part of this - Rotting in the Desert - Part I -

Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post


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Article References:

Tyler Storey – Phoenix Area Gardening Coach – www.tylerstorey.com
Tyler Storey’s Desert Garden web site - http://thedesertgarden.com/

Additional Information may be found at Earth Friendly Gardening

http://earthfriendlygardening.wordpress.com/2006/05/09/browns-greens-what-to-compost/


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Written by Jeff


PL8 A TUDES


We continue our series of personalized (vanity) license plates in Arizona. To maintain individual privacy, we try to show as little information about particular cars as possible as long as we can reveal the license plate.
spacer
NOTE - License plate photos may have been archived for quite some time. The years indicated on the registration stickers DO NOT necessarily reflect the current status of any given plate!
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We hope you enjoy these PL8 A TUDES!

****************************************

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You always have to
WRK4IT

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Because you are

NVRDUNN

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Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post

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Written by Jeff

Compost in Hands

A rose by any other…no, that’s not it. Composting is composting is composting! Whether you live in the northeast or southwest, the science (and art) of composting is very similar. It isn’t always the same, but very similar. This article is based on and inspired by a workshop conducted by Tyler Storey who presented this information to a group of Scottsdale, AZ gardeners on October 2, 2008. Tyler is a garden coach in the area and you can view his website here:

www.tylerstorey.com

The presentation included a good slide show that unfortunately cannot be reproduced here. I’m afraid you will have to use your imagination here although I have found some pictures on Flickr which I will include and appropriately credit if you mouse over the photos.
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The Main Idea

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Composting is simply taking actions to provide the raw materials and conditions for the process of breaking down vegetative materials. Hard at work in this process are fungi, bacteria and microorganisms which assist in this process of changing the raw materials into compost.

As Mr. Storey pointed out, there are four basic ingredients needed for successful composting: Carbon, Nitrogen, Air and Water. Ah, water! Yes, that is the rub for those living in the Sonoran Desert. It is very important to make sure there is enough water for the composting process to occur. Without water, things will just mummify and will not rot appropriately. More about this later.

The composting recipe: carbon, nitrogen, air and water. Add all ingredients and mix well until compost is done. Let’s examine the individual ingredients and the roles they play in the composting mix.
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Carbon

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This is the ingredient that adds energy to the compost pile. Items containing carbon are usually called Browns. Sawdust, for example, has a ratio of carbon to nitrogen of 500:1 while dry leaves have a ratio of 60:1.

Examples of Browns:

  • Sawdust
  • Woody prunings (chopped or shredded)
  • Newspaper or cardboard (cut up)
  • Straw
  • Dry leaves
  • Corn Stalks

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Nitrogen

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Compost Bin
Compost ingredients containing ample supplies of nitrogen are referred to as Greens. These are things like plant-based kitchen scraps which usually have a carbon to nitrogen ration of 20:1. Nitrogen is important because it allows the microorganisms to develop and reproduce. Without enough nitrogen, they may die and composting will not be successful. A suggested ratio of carbon to nitrogen for a healthy compost heap is 25 or 30: 1.

Leaves, for example with a C/N ratio of 60:1 do not provide enough nitrogen. Adding cow manure or coffee grounds which each have a ratio of 20:1 supplies the needed nitrogen.

Examples of Greens:

  • Garden waste
  • Leafy trimmings (from actively growing plants)
  • Manures – Poultry or cow

Things to Avoid:

  • Diseased plant material
  • Animal byproducts
  • Fats or cooking oils
  • Weeds with seeds
  • Dog or cat waste

To be continued in Part II

Article References:

Tyler Storey – Phoenix Area Gardening Coach – www.tylerstorey.com
Tyler Storey’s Desert Garden web site - http://thedesertgarden.com/ - Where questions about composting are answered. Other gardening information is also posted.
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Read Part II of Rotting in the Desert
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Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post


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Written by Jeff


PL8 A TUDES


We continue our series of personalized (vanity) license plates in Arizona. To maintain individual privacy, we try to show as little information about particular cars as possible as long as we can reveal the license plate.
spacer
NOTE - License plate photos may have been archived for quite some time. The years indicated on the registration stickers DO NOT reflect the current status of any given plate!
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We hope you enjoy these PL8 A TUDES!

****************************************

Summer visitors may think Phoenix is a

TOASTR

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But as long-time residents like to point out, it is a


DRIHEAT


spacer Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post

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Written by Jeff

Book review: A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson

If this is the first book review you are reading on this site, you might want to check out the disclaimer here:

Bill Bryson is the ultimate Renaissance man. While excelling at research and humorous, expository writing, his books generally contain information that is interesting on multiple levels and A Walk in the Woods is no exception. There are explanations of continental drift theory, animal behavior, survival tactics, the history of the Appalachian Trail (or AT as referenced throughout the book), Civil War battles and much more. Interspersed among these tidbits there is a fairly good buddy story being told which humanizes the experiences and brings them home.

An example of Bryson’s information dexterity, is his found in the detailing of the activities of the Forest Service in chapter four. He points out “In fact, mostly what the Forest Service does is build roads. I am not kidding. There are 378,000 miles of roads in America’s national forests.” To put that into perspective, he adds that (at the time the book was written) it was eight times the mileage in America’s interstate highways system. The book also notes some of the errors the forest service has made in managing our national forest treasures.

Bill Bryson has a humorous way of painting mental pictures. At one point he and his hiking companion, Katz, were joined on the trail by a somewhat portly Mary Ellen who talked incessantly and commented on almost anything the two men did. Katz had trouble containing himself as she made remarks about his habits and weight. At one point she bends over to get something from her backpack “…displaying an expanse of backside on which you could have projected motion pictures for, let’s say, an army base.” After reading about her prattling along the hike, this mental image is priceless.

The book is instructive for those who plan to hike the AT or parts of the trail as it is obvious that the author prepared well by doing much homework that he gladly shares in the pages of A Walk in the Woods. As the various sections of the trail are explained, the reader can assess which parts are more suited to their tastes, but as he points out, “…the central feature of life on the Appalachian Trail is deprivation.”

For those who like facts, here is some of the AT trivia mentioned in the book:

  • The Appalachian Trail is more than 2,100 miles long.
  • People who hike the trail in one fell swoop are known as “‘thru-hikers’” while those who do it in pieces are referred to as “‘section hikers.’”
  • Earl V. Shaffer was the first to hike the trail from end-to-end in 1948.
  • Since Shaffer’s feat, 4,000 others have accomplished this task
  • The longest section hike took 46 years.
  • Ward Leonard hiked the trail in sixty days (with full pack and no support crew)

Perhaps one of the most interesting episodes in the book was the visit to Centralia, Pennsylvania among the smoke filled streets and warm, wavy pavement of a town being melted by a long-lasting coal fire under the earth’s surface which has been burning for more than forty years. Several homes in town still had the appearance of life from within; newly planted gardens, children’s toys in the backyards, etc. After realizing the precariousness of his situation, Bryson was quick to leave the area.

Bryson manages to suck the reader into his world to vicariously “enjoy” his experiences. His trip to the sporting goods store in the beginning of the book, for example, is a gem. If you have ever gone to shop for items about which you had little or no knowledge, you will find resonating chords among these paragraphs. We have all tried to cover up shortcomings by pretending to know more than we did, but in Bryson’s case, this could be a foolhardy mistake since his life may depend on having the right gear. He manages to walk the thin line with style even if not always gracefully.

Bryson humorously and sympathetically schleps us along his trek with Katz in search of the mysteries of the AT. We understand his remorse in not finding the elusive hellbender salamander, which he suggests, was among the first land animals to crawl from the seas. His descriptions of some of the accommodations he and Katz acquire along several legs of the trip are both amusing, and if you are planning on taking the hike, sobering as well! By the end of the book, you will probably be as weary of instant noodles, Snickers candy, Slim Jims and raisins as our intrepid adventurers were.

To summarize, what Bryson brings to his reader from the comfort of their chairs is the sentiment expressed in the opening paragraph of chapter six:

“Distance changes utterly when you take the world on foot. A mile becomes a long way, two miles literally considerable, ten miles whopping, fifty miles at the very limits of conception. The world, you realize, is enormous in a way that only you and a small community of fellow hikers know. Planetary scale is your little secret.”

After reading A Walk in the Woods, you too will appreciate that “little secret” and do so with many amusing and interesting memories provided from within the pages of this book. I can easily recommend this read to anyone who enjoys hiking, nature or a tale well told!

A Walk in the Woods : Rediscovering America on the Appalachian Trail by Bill Bryson, ISBN-13: 9780767902526, Pub. Date: May 1999

Gardening on the Moon, www.gardeningonthemoon.com, originally published this post


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